Tuesday, February 1, 2022

The field of stars

A field of stars, colored and magnified
ESO/G. Beccari

Each February I evaluate the previous year's apples in a qualitative ranking system of zero to three stars. Sometimes I revisit and revise decisions from previous years.

I was fortunate to taste 15 new-to-me varieties in 2021. Only 4 of these came from farm stands or grocery stores: most were from personal connections I've made thanks to this blog. 

I treasure these connections as much as I treasure the apples. 

Of the 15, 4 earned a single star, while 3 earned two.

As for three stars—see below.

* Worth choosing

Two of 2021's one-star picks are from a box of test apples from the Midwest Apple Improvement Association.

These were not always in the greatest shape, and may merit more stars (including some that got none).

I only blog from my direct experience, however.

A star each for Midwest apples MAIA test 14, crunchy and fine despite time off the tree, and the flavorful Baker's Delight. The Delight is already in commercial cultivation.

I also add astras to Novaspy and to the apple with the worst name of the year, Hunnyz. (Or is it "HunnyZ"?) Blame the marketing department; the apple is innocent.

One hundred fifty-six apples—nearly half of the ones I've tried—now have a single star.

** Worth a journey

I'm more selective when I hand out two stars. These are apples I feel to be a real cut above.

two starsThere are now 68 of them.

Scott's Winter is a high-quality Vermont antique that deserves to be better known.

Trailman Crab arrived with high expectations from a reader (thanks, Pete!); expectations met.

Hoople's Antique Gold is that unusual beast, a sport that varies so much from its parent (Golden Delicious) that it really deserves to be considered as a separate variety.

A green-yellow apple tinted with russet

Also, it is very pretty.

I wrote most of my Hoople's review in 2013, when I first tasted the apple. (Uncertainties, since resolved, had held me back from publishing)

Two stars each.

*** Worth a quest

Based on a second tasting last year, I am revising my assessment of Reinette Clouchard from two to three stars.

3 stars: Exceptional apple, worth a quest This brings the three-star count to six, out of more than 300 tasted. I am pretty stingy with the triple stellations.

The Clouchard is a high-quality apple with delicate flavors that work together exceptionally well. My original two-star evaluation was based on an apple that was probably just a bit early.

A soring green apple with a faint orange blush and some tiny black specks

It also strikes me as fitting that the Reinette-type apples be represented among the three-star generals.

I had not made any changes to the three-star category since I demoted the nonetheless delectable Chestnut Crabapple to two stars in 2013.

Stars in focus

My judgments are my own, though there is a method to my madness. 

The ratings are based on eating qualities at peak. If I don't get a good example I cannot do it justice. 

I think most of the apples I tried this year were not at their very best. They may deserve a different rating.

My hope is that by making small adjustments over time, I am keeping things as fresh and accurate as possible.

But no one died and left me custody of the genus Malus. You should feel free to differ. Follow your own tastes.

The only reason for a rating system at all is to structure a growing body of work—to help readers in their own explorations of the pomaceous fruit.

So please put your tastes before mine. I aspire to be a helpful guide, not a fruit czar. Apples with no stars can be good to eat, and many have interesting qualities.

Post it note that sayd, "Enclosed are Trailman Crab Apples. Enjoy! Pete"
With a little help from my friends

Thanks to the European Southern Observatory for making its image available under a creative commons license. The photo shows a portion of the bright star cluster NGC 3532.

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