Envy (Scilate) *

This apple, like Pink Lady in the UK, is marketed to women. But if Pink Lady's brand avatar suggests a wholesome young mother, Envy is Pink Lady's more worldly sister, exotic and sultry.

Today we can finally blow past the clever marketing and taste the real deal.

First of all, these are hefty girls (I bought three), weighing in at more than 13 ounces each, about 10-3/4 inches around. Just to give you some idea, I photographed one with a Vista Bella, admittedly a small one.

Envy (right) is a large large.

Ribbed and slightly conical, with a deep stem well, Envy has a striking streaked blush. Deep reds mix with shallower washes of crimson that, over the underlying yellow green, can look orange.

Her large light lenticels are most prominent where the blush is darkest, and the peel is more matte than glossy. She has a sweet aroma.

The bite reveals very coarse yellow flesh, satisfyingly crisp and juicy. The flavors are sweet and moderately saturated but not overwhelming. These include a strong floral element and a slightly spicy finish, along with something almost vinous. There is a lingering whisper of vanilla in the tastes it leaves behind.

These are pleasing flavors, but what I really like about Envy is her crisp texture, breaking off in great chunks with a crunch that persists though the chew.

Chefs take note: my Envy did not oxidize at all during the 30 minutes it took me to eat (and write about), making it a candidate for salads and garnishes. The grower claims a cut Envy will go for 10 hours without browning.

Envy is a Gala x Braeburn cross and has inherited the best qualities of her parents. She is a patented variety from Enza; mine are imported from New Zealand.

If now is really the peak time to eat these, they must mature for several months, as the harvest on the other side of the world has been over since April.

Envy is still very much a specialty apple, and I would blush to tell what I paid for mine. The Vista Bellas and Yellow Transparents I got at the Lexington Farmers Market later that day were less than half the price per pound.

But I do not have any trouble eating them, and neither will you.

Also: I eagerly await an apple that is marketed to men. Hey Hombre, this russet's for you!