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I thought my previous review would be the last for 2017, but happily a reader from Washington State decided to send SugarBee my way. Thank you, John!
The moment I unpacked these, something said "Honeycrisp" to me. It isn't size: these are large but not nearly as big as the H bomb. Nor is it shape.
I think its the orange tinged blush, which also has shimmery quality, at least in artificial light. That is Hcrisp-esque.
Either that, or I am just sensitive lately about Honeycrisp's outsized influence on the apple world, and was unconsciously triggered by the S word in SB's name.
In any case, my gut reaction proved true, see below.
In addition to the above description, note Sugar Bee's many large tan lenticel dots and underlying yellow peel (marked with green).
Some of my other samples are a bit broader in the beam, but all have a touch of the classic conical taper. SugarBee has only understated ribbing.
The peel is quite glossy and the fruit has a faint sweet aroma.
The bite unleashes a clean breaking crunch, with coarse, juicy yellow flesh. SugarBee is very sweet but with a sense of rich saturated flavors.
I say "sense of" because the sugar obscures individual tastes. Nonetheless, there is a distinct honeydew note that is especially prominent in the finish, and a generic floral quality throughout.
There is also some gingery spice, some confectioner's sugar, and hints of something close to caramel in the sweetness.
Most tantalizing is a heady, almost alcoholic quality in the heart of the bite, as if something had imbued each mouthfull with a micro-shot of Pommeau.
(Pommeau is tannic apple juice that has been fortified with Calvados or other apple brandy. It is very roughly the sherry or port of the apple world, though more accurately it is a mistelle.)
Although I am personally a little put off by the sugar level, this variety is impressive for its winning crunch and richness of flavor. And of course super sweetness is no bar to commercial success in this business; far from it.
SugarBee is Honeycrisp's daughter by an unknown pollen parent. Chelan Orchards, in central Washington State, has exclusive U.S. rights to this variety while the patent holds.
In 2014, when the apple was just known as "CN 121," Chelans's field horticulturalist told Good Fruit Grower that SugarBee would hit the market "by 2020."
The grower seem to have beaten that goal, at least locally. John, my Spokane benefactor, reports that he found his in a nearby supermarket.
If all goes according to plan, you'll be able to try these for yourself in a few years.
- Chelan's SugarBee web page, full of markety goodness!
- Good Fruit Grower's take in 2014 (you have to scroll down and find "CN 121")
- The actual patent for the cultivar
- Pommeau, e.g.
- Mistelle
- Oh all right, for goodness sakes, Honeycrisp.
I had one the other day. Noted right off that it must be related to Honeycrisp. I Googled it while still in the store to see what the parentage was, and sure enough... Decided to buy a couple even though I was worried about just how sweet this thing would be. First bite had a nice tart quality to it, not as sugary as I had expected and I very much like that floral aroma. It's a great apple in an arugula salad. Would love to try one off the tree, but I doubt we'll get them that fresh here.
ReplyDelete@Karin, they are pretty sweet. But I think they are a cut above in that field. Honeycrisp better watch its back.
DeleteHad one recently liked the ginger note
ReplyDeleteAgree on the "alcoholic" vibes - first thing I noticed - quite unique for an apple, in my opinion. Although I've definitely enjoyed sweeter apples than the SugarBee.
ReplyDeleteIt's a quality I've sometimes noticed in watercored apples (which my SugarBees were not).
DeleteMy store recently started selling these and I gotta say, they’re quickly becoming my favorite
ReplyDeleteMost of the Honeycrisps I've had have been overly sweet, this is just right for me with an excellent texture. There's not as much nuance to the flavor profile as I've had in some apples (thinking about the cinnamon in the Lady Alice) but this at present is my "I'd like an apple please" apple for it's representation of apples. There may be better, fancier apples, but so what, one doesn't skip In-N-Out burgers just because some Michelin restaurant managed to make some artsy Wagyu deconstruction
ReplyDeleteEspecially this time of year!
DeleteI have sugarbees at my local grocery store here in Southern Utah, they are literally the only apple I buy anymore. I love how sweet and juicy they are. Never was a fan of honeycrisp, or apples in general(i work in the produce department, i try them all). But I will go out of my way to buy sugar bees. And they are the only apple that doesn't create excess gas bubbles to upset my tummy. Big win for me.
ReplyDeleteThese are now available in New England supermarkets at least some of the time, which means, probably, everywhere. Production must be ramped up if we are seeing them here.
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