Its brooding appearance is daunting, but this was far from the most grotesque sample of this unusual apple. Others were so deformed as to be unrecognizable as part of any living organism, let alone as an apple.
Instead, the medium-sized sample I chose shows a little of everything: Yellow skin, mottled translucent orange blush, and disfiguring russet. Or perhaps its knobby bulges are not related to the russet at all. Small lenticels, where visible, are mostly russeted.
Where not deformed this apple seems to be modestly ribbed. Its calyx is open and it feels firm and solid. It glowers.
As I contemplate this unusual variety, I wonder: what if this is not just a curiosity? What if it's really good?
Only one way to find out.