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Wagener **

Visually the most interesting thing about Wagener is the tentative, almost milky red blush, which washes in varying patches over a spring green that is practically yellow.

I don't mean that it is terribly beautiful, but it is surprisingly complex. The blush is also a bit streaky in some places, and there are small light lenticel dots.

The peel has a semigloss sheen. Click on the photo if you'd like to look closer.

Wagener is medium-sized and prominently ribbed. My samples have considerable sooty blotch and a faint cheesy aroma mixed with a sweet fruity note.

two stars Inside, pleasantly crisp fine-grained white flesh is sweet, with tempering tartness.

It's a little spicy and vinous, with no single dominant flavor, but there's a touch of lychee and something very like anise. The peel is a bit chewy, and there's melon in the finish.

Wagener is a lovely apple with a harmonious bundle of flavors.

Trees of Antiquity has the origin story of this variety, which dates from the end of the 18th century in New York's Finger Lakes region.

Big Horse Creek Farm picks up the story by saying that Wagener "is one of many fine apple varieties which originated in New York state and became very popular in the South."

Wagener is really nice! I hope you can find some next year.