Thursday, November 11, 2010

Resista*

This large, classically shaped apple is visually striking, with a variegated blush (quite deep red in spots, but mostly streaky over yellow) and some unusual effects from russet and other superficial defects.

Of course this sort of thing is the kiss of death in the big-time fruit world, where obsession with physical perfection has been known to compromise quality. But this fruit is from an organic farm and wears its blemishes like dueling scars. I find it ruggedly handsome.

Inside Resista is a crisp juicy light yellow, coarse grained, with an even, sweet flavor. There is only a slight suggestion of acidity or tartness, but it helps.

It is hard to say what other qualities and tastes that sweetness masks, but there are hints of sweet hard cider, complete with a little fizz. This is not the funky punkiness I have found in some varieties held perhaps a bit too long (and which reinds me a bit of dry hard cider). Nor is it the generic flavor I call "cider" (and fall back on perhaps a little too easily). This unusual flavor enlivens a sweet, crisp variety.

There really should be quotation marks around the name of this apple, which according to the grower was never a cultivar name at all, even informally. Rather, several similar varieties, supposedly variations of well-known apples such as Gala and Jonathan, were at one time marketed (to farmers) under the "Resista" masthead.

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