Kanzi (Nicoter) *

Kanzi, which means "hidden treasure" in Swahili, is a modern breed from Belgium.

It is large but not huge, tapered and conical, a cheerful glossy yellow partially covered with an orange-tinged-red blush.

Small lenticels are only prominent in the lightly blushed regions, and the unblushed yellow has green highlights.

Modest ribbing is mostly manifest in the bumps around the fruit's calyx end.

Kanzi feels firm and hard as befits an apple bred to be stored, shipped, and handled across modern wholesale and retail markets.

The bite: Kanzi's coarse-grained yellow flesh is crisp and juicy but not crackling and is easy to eat. Those who dislike dense hard apples should be fine with the texture.

It is a very well-balanced fruit, on the sweet side for me, with a pleasant savory tang (a little grassy) beneath fruity spicy flavors (ginger pepper) and even a hint of citrus.

These flavors give Kanzi a little measured snap.

Kanzi hits the sweet spot. Without straying very far from the crisp sweet market mean, this new variety offers some original tastes in an appealing way.

Kanzi is the trademarked name for Nicoter, a Gala x Braeburn cross first introduced in Europe in 2006. I do not grasp the Swahili reference, but it seems to have been a theme with the breeder.

There is a ridiculously over-the-top web page for this apple, which I am struggling mightily to refrain from mocking.

But as for the apple, not bad!

Update: See how Kanzi stacks up against its sibling (same parents), Jazz.