A few years ago, Mike, a reader, proposed a blog called "The Braeburn That I Ate Today." He was reflecting on the variability of his favorite apple. Until he follows through with this noble plan, I am filling in with a report about a dozen different Braebs I've eaten this year. The three apples in my lead photo are all Braeburn, purchased on the same day from the same supermarket (January 26, Burlington (Massachusetts) Market Basket, "batch 'A'"). From left, striped and blocky; orange, striped, and conical; solid red, broad, and tapered. The apple Braeburn is one of several imports from New Zealand, available these days in supermarkets across the U.S. It is not especially a favorite of mine (not that I have a problem with it), but it is not hard to enjoy either. The investigation There is something to Mike's point of view, in that Braeburn varies. When I started tasting in the winter, the samples were