Adam's Apples

Two years ago, Red Apple Farm sold me some apples that I found exceptional. I thought they were Lodi apples because the grower said so. This year, it turns out, those apples were really Yellow Transparents. So of course last Tuesday I let Red Apple sell me some more apples called Lodi, and of course I think that's really really what they are this time. Okay, I see the pattern. But I'm getting fed. Pass the fruit. These apples are on the large end of small, a delicate yellow-green that is mostly yellow on the sunward side, where there is sometimes a hint of pink.

This striking small medium fruit is light yellow with light green lenticels. It is ribbed and has little bumps, or "chins," around the calyx.   My sample has some russet in the stem well and a mellow aroma that suggests pear and Golden Delicious.

Today's variety, Duchess of Oldenburg, runs medium-sized with a pinkish blush in pronounced streaks over yellow green. The apples are ribbed and wear many green lenticels a little darker than the skin. My tasting sample has a little russet in the stem well, and her calyx is closed. The Duchess is renowned as a cooking apple, especially if picked a little early (as I suspect mine may have been). But what would you have me do? Suppose I did cook some into a pie (or a pancake ). Yummy for me, but there would be no frame of reference to compare these apples with the other sixty-odd varieties I've reviewed. So I'm just going to stick to my old habits and eat this one raw.

In my eagerness to try the latest fruit, I've been tasting apples as soon as I find them at the market or farm stand. But buying at the very start of an apple's growing season might bias the sample towards greener, tarter, and less-ripe fruit. (For this reason I have refrained from reviewing the early McIntoshes I bought this week, though it is exciting to see them for sale at farmers' market.) I've gone back for a second look at Paula Red, which has been around for more than two weeks, and Red Gravenstein, whose shorter picking season nonetheless spans a week or so.

Gravenstein, and its sporty red sibling, may be the most sophisticated of the early apples. It has a complex taste and there is a Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastopol California every August. The medium-sized, modestly ribbed fruit is mostly green with a streaky red blush and tan spots. Its white-green flesh is firm, crisp and juicy. The taste is a balanced tart-and-sweet, with spice and floral notes. There is a tiny bit of pine towards the finish. Similar to a Red Gravenstein, but not as sweet. The Gravenstein Apple Fair folks provide recipes, history, and other juicy stuff about the Gravenstein.

I'll cut to the chase: these tasty, light apples are last week's mystery apple named. The following tasting was without reference to my earlier description in the Adventure of the Scarlet Blush : Medium-sized light green-yellow apple with a partial red blush that is streaky in spots. There are small spots that are dark green over the green and light colored against the blush. Very slight ribbing. Fine-grained white flesh with a hint of green, juicy, crisp, and light. Sweetness tempered with some tart; sugar and banana notes, a tiny bit of spice, and mild astringent finish. Note the unusual whiff of banana. And if you like, compare the two photos side by side.

This handsome medium-sized apple sports a dark purplish blush with light speckles. It is somewhat ribbed and some are conical. The flesh is a dense and creamy (slightly yellow) and gives a nice crunch. Willams' Pride is sweet but not cloying, juicy, and rich, with notes of pear. Something about the flavor brings to my mind that of the Baldwin apple, though I am sure the differences would be very obvious were it possible to take a time machine to October to compare the two. ( Update: Judge for yourself! ) Though not very acid or tart it has a nice astringent tail that persists after eating, more a sensation than a flavor. I would guess that Williams' Pride would appeal to many different tastes, as it is mild without blandness and has an unusual character of its own.

I was in Clinton (Massachusetts) today and stopped at Bolton Orchards to see what they had. Turns out, a lot, though mostly stored apples from 2007. Milton here, though, was recent. As you can see from the photo (taken outside the store) this is a yellow-green apple with a (mostly) solid red blush. It's medium sized with light tan spots and understated ribs. The flesh is white with a hint of green and fine grained, somewhat tender but quite edible. Taste is juicy and astringent, a little acid and tart with faint grapefruit and lime notes and a little pepper. Overall a pleasantly dry effect that would be noteworthy were the apple crisper.

Crunch! Gingergold is a medium-to-large fruit, a sprightly green-yellow with tiny dark-green speckles. Some of the apples have a pale red-orange blush, usually over only a small portion of the skin. The sample pictured is more conical than most, but all seem to have some ribbing and many have a little russetting in the stem well.

I got two of these at Lexington's farmers market, one so different from the other that maybe two varieties got confused in the box. I am describing the more traditional-looking of the two (shown): medium sized, yellow-green with a streaky red blush with some faint speckles that you have to look very carefully to see. I had thought my mystery apple might turn out to be one of these, but based on appearance alone I'd say not so even before tasting it.

I burst into the drawing room at 221B Baker Street as the first drops of afternoon rain struck the windowpane. "Holmes!" I gasped. "Calm yourself, Watson," my friend replied languidly, failing to rise from the sofa before the fire. "I perceive you have something for me." He gestured to a small table at his side, on which I placed the fruits of my hunt. "Apples?" he said, with noticeable indifference. "In August? What are they, Watson? Come, tell all." "That's just the problem, Holmes," I said. "The grower at the market couldn't say. Just a sign saying, 'Our own fresh-picked apples.' Can you identify them?" "Hmph. A grower who doesn't know what he grows does not inspire confidence." He looked into the fire, the trace of a weary smile on his lips. "Describe them for me, Watson," he said suddenly. I stepped forward and held one of the fruits into the failing light, determined to ...

I was out of town on Wednesday, but today scored some Paula Reds at Belmont's farmers market. Paula Red is a medium-sized apple that is mostly red, though with green streaks and small light speckles. Skin is more matte than glossy. The fruit is slightly ribbed and where the red fails the underlying color is a spring green that is bright and saturated. (In fact it looks like that of a Vista Bella. ) I have had some Paula Reds that were not very interesting, but these are the most McIntosh -like apples of the summer so far. Crisp and a tart, with spice notes and assertive acidity.

I got three pretty little Yellow Transparent apples at Lexington's farmers market last Tuesday. These are small-to-medium apples with pale yellow-green skin attractively set off by darker green speckles. One has a faint pink blush about an inch in diameter. The flesh is white and fine-grained with yellow-green highlights and is pleasingly crisp with a satisfying crunch.

As told previously, I bought two of these on August 5th at Lexington's Farmers Market. They're not bad! This is a medium-sized apple with just a hint of ribs. The blush is streaky and a little washed out. There is a some russetting in the stem well. The taste begins tart, with pine notes, but then fades as does that of most early apples. Exceptionally crisp and crunchy for an early apple.   The dense white flesh has green highlights and calves just a little when bitten, with only slight softness afterwards. I wonder, in fact, if these are a little unripe. (Maybe they're better that way.) The finish is pleasingly astringent.

Tuesday was unseasonably cool and nice, so I pedaled out to Nagog Hill Farm in Littleton. This orchard, in part of the old Sarah Doublet lands overlooking Nagog Pond, has been in business for years even as neighboring farms fell to development. (A recent interview with one of the chief chroniclers of this plot of land includes some tantalizing historical details. ) Alas, Nagog Hill Farm grows no early apples (though the peaches and plums were tempting). But look closely at the deep red spots in the photograph to see what's headed our way.

The Vista Bellas , still going strong this week, are joined at Farmers' Market by a second early apple, the Jersey Mac. Jersey Mac is probably the best-known of the earlies, the name evoking the popular classic McIntosh. Not my favorite, but I picked one up to share here--hey, who loves ya? How Mac-like is this Mac? Well, it's round and red.  There is a moment when you take a bite that you can convince yourself it is going to taste like a McIntosh, though it doesn’t follow through. The texture is a little soft, like a Mac you would still eat but is past its prime. (But, this apple was fresh.)

The first local apple of the year is a surprise and a revelation. By July I am eating apples from Chile and New Zealand, and even they are out of season. Early apples are not usually very good—you wouldn't chose one like them in peak season—-but they are unmistakably New England. The first bite promises delights to come. Today's fruit, a Vista Bella, was the first and only only apple at Farmers Market. There are many types of summer apples, each of which have a short season. I won't be surprised if these are gone next week. Vista Bella is pretty: brilliant green, like a Granny Smith or Pippin, with a deep red blush. The fruit is slightly ribbed, which adds to its overall attractiveness.