Adam's Apples

In the 1990s, the Washington State University cast its envious eye at the success of the University of Minnesota's Honeycrisp , and asked, why can't we do that? "That" in this case was not just apple breeding, but also a new business model. Honeycrisp was a club apple , restricted to select Minnesota growers while the plant patent lasted. (It expired in 2008.) Cosmic Crisp (left) is Washington's answer, and Washington growers have gone all-in, planting tens of millions of trees since its 2015 release. But Sunrise Magic (right) was an early contender. Released in 2009 as WA-2, it got its own brand name in 2016.

A darker Cosmic Crisp Tiny light lenticial dots contrast with the dark red blush of this apple. The folks at Washington State University looked at it and saw stars: pinpoints in the night sky. They named the apple "Cosmic Crisp." However, the blush of the Cosmic Crisps I reviewed in 2019 was not particularly dark.

In the realm of Honeycrisp and its two principal rivals, EverCrisp and Cosmic Crisp , the SugarBee (R) is but a poor relation. Why, it doesn't even have the word "crisp" in its name. But it comes from the same stock and aims for the same effect. So join me for a comparison tasting with Cosmic Crisp (L), since I am fortunate to have both today.

It is a truth universally acknowledged that a new apple variety with the word Crisp in its name is positioning itself for a run at Honeycrisp . Of course, that means these rival varieties are also implicitly competing against each other. So, Cosmic Crisp (L) and EverCrisp, what do you have to say for yourselves?

You knew this was coming, right ? I just ate these guys, and am feeling—sugared out. The spectacular commercial success of Honeycrisp (right) has spawned a generation of challengers. Today comes Cosmic Crisp to claim the Saccharine Crown. If you are a Honeycrisp fan, you've got to be wondering how the challenger stacks up.

Today's apple has attracted an extraordinary amount of attention from growers in Washington State. The state university there developed and is promoting the new variety. The growers are responding by ordering and planting thousands of trees. Cosmic Crisp is a very handsome apple, quite big, with a saturated blush of orange-tinted crimson decorated by lenticel dots. These run the gamut from tiny and distinct to large and diffuse. Ribbing also runs a range from moderate to pronounced. My photo sample is tapered but most of the others are rounder and blocky.