Adam's Apples

Who shall dethrone the mighty Honeycrisp? The wolves have been circling for some time around old King Honeycrisp . This variety originated, and still dominates, the niche of super crisp, tooth-achingly sweet apples. Honeycrisp's rival apples aspire to rule the kingdom, not to topple it. To supplant with same-only-better, not to challenge with new tastes and textures. By when did the King get so old? What makes him vulnerable?

In 2012 I found some illegal local Sweetangos for sale here in Massachusetts. Illegal because the license for this hot new variety is strictly controlled, to the point where no one in New England is allowed to grow them. Although the bootlegged versions were substantially different from the licit ones in appearance and flavor profile, I was more than half convinced. Local "Sweetango" True Sweetango Sweetango seems to be so variable based on growing conditions and handling. I hadn't yet had a good one , either. Also the apple was pretty tasty in its own right, and so (I reasoned) why fake a Sweetango connection when you could patent, develop, and market the apple yourself? But today I not only refute the Sweetango claim. I unmask this apple's true identity.

Sweetango's fame exceeds its availability, but I've finally got some promising examples. This medium-sized apple is conical and slightly ribbed. The blush can be stunning, red saturated in streaks and tinged with orange. On some samples this darkens to whole solid sections. Large brown lenticels are prominent on the glossy peel. The apple is firm to the squeeze and has a sweet cider-laced aroma. What does it do in your mouth?