Adam's Apples

Stormalong, the Massachusetts cider maker, names each in its Rare Apple Series after one of the apples used to make the drink. My idea to photograph the named apple with the cider is more playful than anything else, especially since most of these are blends of perhaps a half dozen different varieties. Today's beverage, however, is a single varietal, one hundred percent Stayman Winesap . And that is a Stayman posing with the family group.  Let's quaff.

At farmers market, careless vendors sometimes confuse these two varieties, which are thought to be related (Stayman, son of Winesap). But they are not the same. How then does each stack up against the other?

Imagine the World's Most Interesting Apple Gentleman, and an unknown apple. Some unidentified apples. He (the gent) inclines his head politely. Squints and sniffs at the apple before taking a bite, measuring its blush, parsing its lenticels. He swirls the bits in his mouth. Pronounces, "Of the Snow family, I think." Spits, bites again, chews. Swallows. "Yes. McIntosh branch. Not that that helps us much." The next bite is pensive. "But something else. Cidery." Another bite. "Well balanced. Sprightly."

Staybrite is a sport of Stayman and presumably eats very similar. These apples were so handsome that I could not resist buying a few to see if there are any differences in texture or taste versus the original. My sample today, like many of the Staybites I saw, is big, much larger than other Staymans I have seen. But another one is just medium-sized. The shapes vary, from oblate to conical. There is a little ribbing.

I just ate my last Stayman, left over from early October. It had improved with age. Still wonderfully breaking crisp and very juicy, spicy with some savory notes I had missed when I sampled these in October of 2008. I wish I had a few more of these! Now I know. I've updated my 2008 review of Stayman.

Also known as Stayman Winesap, though the Winesap is a different (and even older) variety. These run medium to large and have a deep red blush that is matte rather than glossy, freckled with light spots. The Stayman I am sampling today is on the large side and is oddly asymmetrical--from one angle its profile describes a rough parallelogram. It sits nice and firm in my hand.