Frostbite vs. Wickson smackdown

This head-to-head became inevitable the moment I first tasted malty Frostbite. Wickson has some similar flavors and qualities, and both make weighty historical claims.

One thing that might not be obvious from my photo is that these apples are both small. Frostbite is about 2 inches in diameter, and Wickson is a large crabapple.

But which is best?

Frostbite, known for 60 years only as MN-447, was found growing in the breeding orchard at the University of Minnesota. Only in the late oughts did UMinn decide to actually market this variety, which it does, tepidly.

The Frostbite tree can survive temperatures as low as 40° below 0, Fahrenheit; thus the name. It is also delectable.

Wickson was created in the first half of the 20th Century in California by master breeder Albert Etter. It is named for another distinguished figure in California fruit, E.J. Wickson. I give it 3 stars.

Frostbite, as seen here, is oblate, with barely detectable ribbing and a streaky crimson blush flowing around small tan lenticel dots. Its unblushed peel is light yellow.

Wickson is smaller and rounder, and its yellow peel, long, thin stem, and orange-red blush suggest (to me anyway) an oversized Rainier cherry.

Frostbite is breaking crisp, its juicy, medium-coarse flesh (light yellow) delivering an immediate hit of sweet malt that yields to some fruity flavors only to return, a bit, in the finish.

And, although I did not find it in my review sample, the end of the finish includes some savory flavor that, when combined with the sweet and tangy malt accent, suggests molasses.

Wickson's flesh is similar, perhaps a little more fine grained but essentially these apples could be brothers beneath the peel.

It is the tastier apple, delivering more malt, more sugar, and enough additional tartness to keep that on an even keel.

The malt is more clearly defined, and does not really give way to anything else, but there is an entirely complementary spicy quality as well.

It is also the crunchier of the pair, and that is saying a lot.
In comparison, Frostbite seems less intense and flavorful, though more traditionally fruity.

If you read reviews you will find people who strain to locate flavors that others find in Frostbite, such as molasses. They are present but can play hard to get.

By contrast, little Wickson's great malty sweet crunch is difficult to miss.

These are both very good, and Frostbite's parade of flavors is especially interesting.

Wickson, however, is outstanding.