Could there be any apple name more likely to excite my antipathy than "Candy Crisp?" Apples should not be tooth-achingly sweet.
I shall nonetheless strive to give an accurate account of this variety, all the while hoping that the fruit will not live up to its saccharine name.
With its yellow-green peel, prominent lenticels, and faint pink blush, this large ribbed apple resembles nothing less than a Honeygold poured into whatever elongated mold is used to make Red Delicious.
The blush is more pronounced on a smaller and yellower sample. Notice the cutouts in the blush where curved shadows fell on the curved surface, suggesting many apples clustered tightly on the tree.
Candy Crisp's half-coarse flesh lives up to "crisp." As for "candy," this mild apple's sweetness does not cloy. It is well balanced, enough to showcase its flavors—if it had any.
Alas, Candy Crisp is lacking in character, despite a pleasing crunch. There is a little corn syrup, though even this is washed out, and in one sample a distant whiff of honeydew melon. Unlike the similarly crisp and attenuated Mutsu, there is no distinctive apple flavor.
In this respect Candy Crisp is akin to Red Delicious (though juicier and with better texture), and may please fans of that popular variety. Indeed Stark Bros., which sells Candy Crisp trees, says that Candy Crisp is "thought to" descend from Red D.