Monday, February 8, 2016

A Lady in winter

a Lady Alice apple in the snowThey're available now. But are they any good?

Lady Alice made her New England debut in the spring of 2010, leaving a very favorable impression. I awarded her two stars ("worth seeking") for great texture and rich and unusual flavors.

That this variety needed to sit until March or April to reach her peak was a feature, not a bug; having something this good to bite at that time of year was a welcome treat amid the tired supermarket standards.

Starting in 2011, reports began to trickle in here of this variety for sale in February. Or, I should perhaps say, complaints: blandness, bitterness, a "chemical taste," and general dissatisfaction.

In 2012 the marketing director from Rainer Fruit chimed in to say that as more trees bore more fruit the company was bringing Lady to market sooner, and implied that there were steps Rainer would take, such as taking them out of storage earlier, to make the apples fit to eat in February.

Indeed this ought to be true, but the early Ladies I found continued to be sub par.

So when I saw some for sale in mid January this year, I rolled my eyes and moved on. But Lady Alice seems to be in multiple supermarkets now. I felt I owed it to my readers and myself to check them out. Here is my report.

Physically these attractive apples look the same whenever I have seen them: a ribbed, slightly tapered profile with the flamboyant orange effect that comes from painting a yellow peal with a streaky red blush.

You can see it for yourself in the photo above, which shows the very apple I sampled earlier today.

No, the question is taste. And that was good, if perhaps not as good as I know Lady Alice can be.

Mine was very juicy and crisp with Alice's characteristic malt flavor. There was also a new almond-extract note that I felt was not an entirely successful addition.

Generally, though, the flavors were rewarding, rich, and quite sweet. And well worth worth eating—I went right out and bought some more—but not as good as the ones I've had later in the season. There is maybe a little bit of starchiness, but still plenty of sugar.

So: There seem to be more of these about, and Rainier seems to be getting the hang of getting them ready for an earlier market.

But if you want to experience Lady Alice at peak, I still suspect you must wait until late March or even April. Give these a try then and you will not be disappointed.

2 comments:

  1. Adam and I apparently have a similar way to test whether we like an apple or not: if I keep reaching for more of one type of apple, I must like it. When I got to my 8th Lady Alice apple (on June 12 BTW), I went back and bought 3 more bags before they are sold out. I took a bag to work today and everyone really liked them. No chemical taste reported.

    I'm eating these apples in mid-June and they are all tasting great: very crunchy with a burst of mouth filling juicy fruitiness(yellow raspberries), followed by a mild tartness and astringency to balance the sweetness.

    Thus, I conclude that this apple needs a pretty long storage to get optimal taste. So, the marketers should consider dialing back getting them to the stores too early or they are going to ruin people to this great apple!

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    Replies
    1. Guy: These were available into May this year here, and I can well believe they've held up for another month and a half.

      So count yourself lucky to have them! For my part, I am really ready for the start of the 2016 harvest, probably not for another 6 weeks.

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