Adam's Apples

The first sight that greeted my eyes at Hutchins Farm (in Concord, Mass.) two days after Tropical Storm Irene were trees full of apples clustered like grapes. I'd worried about the trees, and the apples, in the blow that we got. Mac's Apples, in southern New Hampshire, had reported that "well-pruned trees heavy with fruit were very stable," but it was reassuring to see for myself. To underscore the good news, a chalkboard at Hutchins made this cheerful report: Made it through Irene with only minimal damage—hope everyone fared as well!

Two days after Irene, the trees at Hutchins Farm were, thankfully, still full of ripening fruit. The farm's first apple of the season, Novamac, was ready to eat. This Nova Scotia–bred variety is medium to small, though I did see one large one in the bin. The squat oblate shape seems characteristic. Its blush, over a lively spring green, is a cheerful red, streaky at points but well-saturated on the sunward side. Small tan lenticels, widely-spaced, provide a visual accent; some in my photo are russeted. Inside is crisp creamy-white flesh, more or less fine-grained. The balance is good: noticeable tartness is met by a good bit of sugar, though there is enough acidity to be bracing.

Though it's a big storm coming, and though we live right next to a flood zone, I am not too worried about home and family safety. Rather, my thought have dwelt on the fate of this year's unharvested apple crop, which lies right in the hurricane's path. And, I am not alone.

Bins of apples at Volante Farms ( map ) earlier today. On the menu: Gravenstein , Gingergold , Empress , Jersey Mac, Paula Red , and Zestar .

Just as Massachusetts celebrates Farmers Market Week come fears that there are too many markets. Writing from Western Mass. for the New York Times, Katie Zezima reports that in some parts of the country farmers complain of a glut of markets. Some farmers say small new markets have lured away loyal customers and cut into profits. Other farmers say they must add markets to their weekly rotation to earn the same money they did a few years ago, reducing their time in the field and adding employee hours.

Do you love Red Delicious? This popular variety is available in supermarkets year round.  ¶  But, is it really the best? With so many other varieties, are you sure that there isn't one you haven't tried that you would like even more?  ¶  Probably, you know what you don't like: apples too tart or bold or hard or weird, mealy apples, apples you'd regret eating. A shame, though, to let fear of bad apples keep you from exploring this wonderful fruit. May I help?

This weekend will mark the annual Gravenstein Apple Fair in Sebastepol, California. But, the LA Times reports, Gravenstein trees in Sonoma County, California are falling prey to developers and more-profitable grapes. The 20 square miles of Gravensteins that once covered the local hills are now reduced to one, and the remaining trees also would have succumbed to chain saws were it not for the matchless flavor of their fruits and the determination of a small band of farmers and preservationists.