Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Cosmic Crisp vs. EverCrisp smackdown

Two large orange-red apples

It is a truth universally acknowledged that a new apple variety with the word Crisp in its name is positioning itself for a run at Honeycrisp.

Of course, that means these rival varieties are also implicitly competing against each other.

So, Cosmic Crisp (L) and EverCrisp, what do you have to say for yourselves?

Of all the many contenders in this space, these apples are the leaders, at least economically.

What's in a name?

As for the two names: EverCrisp boasts of its keeping qualities, while Cosmic Crisp—well, to me it sounds like a character from some 1960s underground hippie comic.

A large red apple
Cosmic Crisp
But the folks at Washington State U who developed this variety say they were inspired by the way that the white lenticel dots march across the dark red blush like a field of stars.

At least the Cosmic name avoids the horribly irritating CamelCase style, may its trendy moment pass quickly.
Visually, both are interesting, but Cosmic Crisp is prettier. Note, however, that this EverCrisp sample, my last of the season, is not nearly as handsome as others I have eaten (see photo below).

Round red apple with a long stem
EverCrisp

I actually like the look of that one best of all.

Both of my samples are large, but Cosmic is bigger; both have orange-tinted blushes over yellow, but Cosmic's is redder and saturated.

Both have visible lenticels, but Ever's are less visually distinctive.

Both are modestly ribbed and a little squat. My Cosmic is more tapered.

Both have sweet and pleasant aromas. Cosmic's has that unusually smokey quality, while Ever's is fruitier, more lush.

Let's see how that translates into taste.

Sweets for the sweet

Cosmic's flavors are saturated enough to bust through a truckload of sugar.  Its light yellow flesh is coarse and juicy, breaking into satisfying chunks with a first-rate crunch.

The flavors are floral. The smokey note I have found in other tastings is faint at best.

Evercrisp is similarly sweet and flavorful, though perhaps a shade less dense. The color and appearance of the flesh is almost identical, and the crunch is very, very good.

Ever's flavor set is lighter, which is one way of saying that the tastes are obscured by too much sweetness. Presumably sugar is not an objection if you are aiming for the Honeycrisp market share.

While this Cosmic Crisp has been stored under top conditions, my EverCrisp has been sitting in my refrigerator since December. I didn't store it as well as I might have and the flavors are a little off.

Nonetheless the texture is really top rate, a plus for an apple called EverCrisp.

I'd give it to Cosmic for taste and Ever for texture and keeping qualities, though in fairness I have no reason to think that Cosmic fares any worse in storage. Cosmic is maybe a touch sweeter.

Under the circumstances I have to call this a dead heat.

But both beat Honeycrisp.

Links

4 comments:

  1. I bought a bag of EverCrisp from my local grocery. This is the first time I've ever seen them in Georgia but I see your smackdown review is from 2019. Sigh. It seems there is often a significant lag time between when you get to sample an apple and when I do here in the south.

    I don't recall ever seeing a Cosmic Crisp, so can't do a smackdown comparison.

    But your description of EverCrisp seems a lot like the one I just ate. I like the texture. It is nice and crisp. Not overly juicy but not dry either. My first couple of bites seemed infused with some flavors and not just sweetness. To me, it tasted a little like pineapple with maybe just the vaguest touch of vanilla.

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    Replies
    1. The first few bites, I find, can often be especially revealing, especially for apples with lots of sugar or tart that subsequently overwhelms the mouth.

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  2. WSU, not UW for the Cosmic

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